Photography

THE LENS

Camera lenses are extremely complex devices consisting of a tubular housing (lens barrel) in which pieces of glass (elements) which are precision ground to form a specific shape are placed, some of which are movable for the purpose of focusing the image that they create. Inside the lens is also housed the iris diaphragm, and in the case of lenses for medium and large format cameras, also the a between-the-lens shutter may exist.

Lens which produces an image which conveys the image with the roughly the same perspective as the human eye sees the world is said to be a Normal Lens.

The seperate elements of glass are formed and polished to perform specific functions in the “bending” of light. Imagine the surface of a pool of still water. When light strikes the surface, it is “bent” inward toward the body of water. This is called refraction. The causes of refraction are complex, and we will not discuss them. The elements of glass in a camera lens operate in the same way. When light strikes the surface of the glass, it is refracted, depending upon the angle of the light ray to the angle of the surface of the glass and the shape of the glass element. As the light leaves the element, it leaves at a different angle than the one at which it was traveling when it struck the surface of the glass. The light rays refract when they strike each surface, on both sides of each element within a lens.

There are 3 types of elements in camera lenses.

Convex - curved outward on both sides
Concave - curved inward on both
Complex - curved on one or both sides, or curved on one side and flat on the other

The terms “complex” and “simple” are also used to describe lenses themselves. The following simple illustration demonstrates the way these 3 types of elements refract light. Elements amy take on various shapes, and they may also be various sizes within a lens. In this way, the light may be refracted this way and that to create the image. Focusing of the image is dome by moving certain elements toward the front or rear of the lens in tandem by mechanical means.

When the focusing elements are moved, they move the rear nodal point of the lens forward or backward slightly, and this brings the image into or out of focus. The rear nodal point of a lens is a point in space behind the lens at which the rays of light of the image meet, and where the image is flipped.

From the rear nodal point the image proceeds to the reflex mirror and/or the film plane (focal plane).

Lenses are denoted as having different focal lengths. Simply stated, the focal length of a lens is determined by the length of the lens from the surface of it’s front element to the film plane when it is focused to infinity (maximum distance).

The iris diaphragm is a set of titanium leaves which interleave to form an opening called the apeture. The apeture varies with the amount that these leaves are closed. You’ve probably seen doorways or hatches in scifi movies that operate this way.


(Internet source image)

The size of the apeture of the iris diaphragm determines the intensity of light which enters the camera and strikes the film. The diaphragm, like the shutter, may be controlled manually or automatically by the camera. The smaller the apeture, the larger the number, and the larger the apeture, the smaller the number. I will explain this in a moment!

Below is a scale of apetures common to photography in 1/2 f/stop incriments. Most hand-held camera lenses do not have apetures larger than f/1.8 or smaller than f/32.

f/(stop) Full stops are bolded
1.2 - very large apeture, bright viewing, strong light intensity
1.4
1.8
2.0
2.4
2.8
3.5
4.0 |
4.5 |
5.6 |---- sharpest images are had with these
6.7 |
8.0 |
9.5
11
13
16
19
22
27
32
45
64 - very small apeture, dim viewing, weak light intensity

All photographic lenses produce their sharpest image resolution at medium apetures. This was true in 1940 and it is true today.

The number applied to a particular diameter of the apeture is determined by the number of times that the diameter of that opening may be placed horizontally from the front element of the lens to twice the length of the the rear nodal point of the lens. In other words, it is the number of times it fits into the lens’ focal length. In this way, the size of an apeture of 5.6 will be smaller for a 50mm lens than it is for a 100mm lens, even though both apetures provide exactly the same intensity of light to enter the camera! F/stops are preset as settings of 1/2 incriments, but an iris diaphram in a lens may be set manually to any size you desire, even sizes between these notched settings. It is"infinately" variable between the maximum and minimum apetures.

In the following example, the f/stop (apeture measurement) would be f/5.6 because the diameter of the apeture can be placed end-to-end 5.6 times in the focal length of the lens.

Autofocus lenses for consumer cameras hit the market in the 1980’s. The early models were slow at focusing compared to more recent ones, and they were also much bulkier. One of the earlies models used a weak laser beam to measure the distance to the subject to determine proper focus. Today, autofocus lenses are second nature to cameras and most novice photographers don’t give them a second thought. There is a photographic technique called “selective focus” wherein the photographer uses the focusing of the lens to determine what part of the image will or will not be in sharp focus.

The different kinds of lenses are:

  1. fixed focal length
  2. variable focal length (zoom)

Among fixed focal length lenses there are normal lenses, wide-angle lenses, and telephoto lenses. Zoom lenses may provide a wide variety of focal lengths with a single lens. Zoom lenses, when “zoomed in”, have a telephoto focal length. Some zoom lenses are capable of zooming from wide angle to telephoto, while “longer” zoom lenses may zoom from short telephoto to longer telephoto focal lengths.

The focal length of a lens has an effect on the perspective it creates. Short focal length lenses, such as fish-eye lenses and other lesser extreme short focal length lenses produce pincusion distortion. This type of distortion creates an image that seems to expand the space between objects of diferent distances and swell inward toward the viewer, as though you are looking at the top of a pincusion. Long telephoto lenses trend to produce barrel distortion, which creates an image that seems to compress the distance between objects of different distances and makes an image that seems to be a bit flat looking. The effect varies from lens to lens, but it is less profound with telephoto lenses than with wide-angle lenses. These effects can be utilized by the photographer to create a special look in a photograph, although this is best used within limits and not often a desirable technique. Portrait photographers use short telephoto lenses because the slight compression of the image with such a lens helps to minimize their subjects imperfections, such as a long nose or chin.

Fixed focal length lenses have no zoom capability. If you want the subject to be larger or smaller in the image, you must get closer or farther away. Zoom lenses allow for the user to “zoom in” by changing their focal length. There used to be 2 kinds of zoom lenses: true zoom and “two touch” zooms. Two Touch zooms used seperate rings around the lens barrel for focusing and for zooming. These lenses have dissapeared since the mid 1980’s completely because of better technology.

Fixed focal length lenses are also dissapearing, as zoom lenses and auto-zoom lenses are replacing them. Among professional photographers, there is still a need for fixed lenses however. This is because fixed lenses are capable of having a larger maximum apeture. The advantage of this is the ability to see the scene through the camera lens more brightly in dim or limited lighting situations, such as at sports events at night or indoors with low incandescent lighting. Zoom lenses typically do not provide as large a maximum apeture as fixed lenses. The trade-off is the ability to zoom. However, there are elite lines of zoom lenses offered by camera makers which provide the same maximum apeture as most fixed lenses. They are however outrageously expensive, and may cost thousands of dollars a piece.

The ability of a lens to focus exceedingly close is called macro-focusing. Creating photographs using some degree of macro focusing at close distances is called “macro photography”, or more formally, photomacrography. Only some lenses have this special ability. Leses which have this capability are called macro focusing lenses. Macro focusing allows the photographer to photograph something very close and make it fill the image. For example, a macro focusing zoom lens is a good choice for zooming in close on an insect at close distance and having the bug fill the image area. Some specialty accessories for photomacrography include a rail bellows. This is a rail or set of rails with mounts on both ends between which a bellows resides. The lens is attached to one end and the camera to another, and the lens may be moved lengthwise on the rail to increase it’s focal length for extreme photomacrography. Such a device would allow you to make a photograph a small portion of the face on a small coin and have that portion fill the entire image area.

Seperate screw-on glass elements (lenses) called close-up lenses are also available which increase the magnification for a particular lens that they are designed for. I have some of those myself.

Extreme close-up photography is called photomicrography, such as the photographing of things through a microscope or objects exceedingly small, such as might be done for medical/forensic, criminal science, and research into devices and materials which are minute.

It takes at least 24 megapixels to compare to the resolution of high resolution emulsion film. You can fit hundreds of microscopic silver clusters into the space of a single computer pixel! The biggest limitation to digital photography is the printing process. However, even the best computer printers in the world cannot produce the same results as even 35mm film printed to 5x7 inches. At least, not yet! The number of megapixels that a digital camera produces relates to the size of the image, not the actual resolution per se. The higher megapixels produce sharper images because as they are scaled down (squeezed) into a smaller area, the image has more “dots” to make up the image. From this, you can see that the viewer or printer is the real limiter of the sharpness of the image - how small the pixels are, such as in a monitor, or how close and small the dots of ink are that a printer squirts onto the printing paper. High quality digital cameras produce images that contain more information than can be printed.

Digital photography has a few disadvantages in the minds of experienced photographers. Although it is cheaper (for the most part) and more convenient, it lacks the ultra resolution of traditional films and it is a less romantic process. However, digital photography also has it’s advantages.

An interesting fact: The photographic process of creating an image with light is considered a theory, because the process of light changing the silver salts is not something which can be observed. It happens too fast, so it is considered a theory, even though scientists understand the chemical process… in theory! This is why creating an exposure on film is called “The Theory of Exposure”.[/quote]

But is it not true that megapixels relates to the size of how big you can make the picture with out losing the origional quality. For instance a 2 megapixel camera can produce 1600x1208 pixels. The megapixels does not always determine quality, it determines the size, but it is the Camera that determines quality. How well a camera can process it, how good is the ccd. So my question is, if you take a Digital camera that can produce 6x10 inches with out losing quality, and you take a film camera that can easily produce the above. Print both on photographic paper and compare them, will their really be a differance? Of course you are not going to use crappy cheap digital cameras, so lets say, use an Olympus.

You can easily print digital photos on photographic paper, I think any one of your 1 hour booths will do it. At least Fujifilm does.[/quote]

While the megapixels does in a way determine quality by determining the number of available pixels which can be resampled for printing (or not resampled), you are correct that the quality of the CCD in the camera and the software processing also have an influence on the image. For that matter, even the lens has an impact, albiet typically negligible with good cameras.

The quality of the printer and the photo printing paper used to print a digital image can have a very significant impact on quality. Color accuracy is effected by every process - the CCD, the circuitry (the purity and flawlessness of the individual electronic parts that make up the processing circuitry), the software in the camera, the circuits in the printer, etc. This is why some high quality PC graphics applications, like Corel Photopaint and Adobe Photoshop, have color calibration wizards, and you can even chose to use the printer’s circuits to determing color accuracy for printing with these applications.

I think what you are asking is how does a 1600x1208 pixel image made on a high quality digital camera, like Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Minolta, Contax, etc compare to one printed from 35mm film at say, 6x10 or 8x10.

If that’s what you are asking -

The emulsion film image would have considerably higher resolution (the finer detail potential, power to resolve the image) than the digital one. The difference would be considerable. There really would be no competition between the two. You would need a digital image using far more pixels which is printed on an ultra high resolution printer to begin to compare to the resolution available from the microscopic clusters of silver bromide in the photographic film and photographic printing paper.

With an image of 1600x1208 pixels, you have 2,048,000 pixels that can make up the image. That is the maximum potential number of dots that is available. If you print it, you can have (theoretically) an image that is 8x10 inches which contains 2,048,000 seperate, accurate, points than can make up the image. With a 35mm negative, you could have many times that many microsopic clusters of silver bromide within the image area, which provides a far greater number of potential points to be printed which make up the image. A cluster of silver bromide is many times smaller than a computer pixel, regardless of the dot pitch of the monitor or whatever.

As an addition to your question:

What you are seeking is a very complex issue, and I am no good at mathematics! Many things come into play with determining the actual amount of detail retained in an image, whether it is emulsion or digital. These are the lens resolving power, number of processes, length of time that photographic materials are exposed to light (which increases the size of the clusters of silver bromide), the chemicals used for processing, the temperature of those chemicals, the amount and frequency of the agitation of the materials in the chemical solutions, processing time, the camera’s quality overall, the DPI of the printer, the algorythms of software applied to the digital image, etc!

However, there are certain constants (or relative ones) which provide us with a good basis for understanding the difference between emulsion and digital imaging resolution and overal quality:

Silver bromide crystals in photographic materials may range from approximately 0.2 to 0.15 nanometers (billionths of a meter, nm) in width.

1 crysal of photographic silver salts = @ .02 to .15 nanometers (nm)
1 millimeter = 1,000,000 nm
1 inch = 25,400,000 nm
1 pixel on a high resolution monitor = @ 1/3 mm (@ 333,999 nm)

I think you can already begin to see the difference between a pixel, regardless of the dot pitch of a monitor or printer for example, and a silver bromide crystal in photographic materials.

HOWEVER, although these crystals are so minute, you cannot print a photographic image with that kind of resolution because the resolving power of lenses (camera, dark room enlarger) is only about 35+ lines per millimeter. If we then use this as our base, you can still see that since a millimeter is equal to about 3 pixels on a high resolution monitor, photographic materials are still capable of printing images at least 35x3= 105 times higher in resolution than today’s current digital cameras. Again this is rough, and if you want to do the actual math using a preset of photographic materials and cameras etc, be prepared to write equasions which are exceedingly long and complex. I hope you were VERY good at math in school!

With each stage of reproduction for anything, such as audio recordings and even image printing, you loose resolution. The camera lens reduces the resolution of the perfect image created by the infintesimal particles of light (photons). The enlarging lens further reduces the resolution, and the printing paper does the same. With digital equipment the process is the same. The DPI of a printer may be 1000 DPI and the digital image file may be only 75 or 90 DPI. One is not really capable of reproducing the quality of the other. You are going to loose a lot in the reproduction process. Also, if you save your digital image, you will loose further detail unless you save it in a lossless format, such as .TIFF. The JPG format is a “lossy” format, and even without applying compression to the image with your graphics program, you are going to lose detail every time you save the image because the algorythm of the program will be applied to it.

Nonetheless, current digital equipment is not capable of capturing anywhere near the image detail of photographic materials.

PHOTOGRAPHIC FILM

Photographic film is a sheet of gelatinous emulsion in which crystals of light-sensitive silver salts are placed. Black and White film has fewer layers than color film, because color film contains color couplers for creating color in the photographic image. There are numerous kinds of photographic film, and the subject is very complex. Films are specialized, and many are made for the purposes of photographing microscopic objects, infrared photography, radiology, etc. I will not go into it deeply because much of it is of little concern for even professional photographers.

Films have different characteristics.

Exposure Latitute: the range of light and dark that a film is capable of recording. This translates into the amount of detail that can be retained in shadows and in highlights in an image. Film with a narrow exposure latitude are less capable of retaining detail in dark shadows or bright highlights, while films with a wide exposure latitude are capable of retaining much more detain in dark shadows or bright highlights.

Exposure latitude should not be confused with contrast ratio. The definitions might imply that they are similar, but they are not the same. Simply stated, the exposure latitutde is the degree to which the film may be unerexposed or overexposed and still capable of producing (with printing compensations) an acceptable print.

Contrast Ratio: the tendancy of a film to render darks as dark and lights as light. A film with a low contrast ratio tends to produce an image with low contrast, wherein the shadows tend to not be extremely dark and highlights tend to not be extremely bright. A high contrast film would have the opposite tendancy.

Grain: the size of the clusters of silver salts in a film which make up it’s image. The smaller the clusters, the tighter the grain is said to be. The difference in grain from one type of film to another can be dramatic.

A number of things effect the grain in a film, such as the length of the exposures used to make the images in the film, the chemnicals used to process it, aggitation of the film in the developer solution, development time, etc. Nonetheless, films have a certain level of granularity in themselves. Faster films are grainier than slow films.

Density: the overall brightness or darkness of an image that a film produces. B&W films and color reversal films have more density than color negative films.

Color Saturation: in color films, it is the richness of the color in the image it produces. Reversal films have more color saturation than color negative films.

Film Speed: the sensitivity of the film to light, such as how little or much is needed to make a proper exposure on that film. Film are generally referred to as “fast” or “slow” regarding their sensitivity to light. These terms are also applied to the size of maximum apteure of a lens, wherein fast lenses have a large maximum apeture ans slow lenses have a small maxumum apeture. A “fast lens” is one with a very large maximum apeture, and a “slow lens” is one with a not so large maximum apeture.

ISO: International Standards Organization rating for the light sensitivity of a particular stock of film. Films have an ISO rating of:

25 ----- Very slow film. Requires long exposures or bright light.
64 ----- Slow film.
100 ---- Moderately slow film.
125 |
200 |--------- Medium speed films.
300 |
400 ---- Moderately fast film.
800 ---- Fast film
1600
3200 - Very fast film. Requires less exposure and lessrer light.

These sensitivity ratings relate directly to the f/stop system used for the apeture of a lens. For example, a film with a speed of 25 is 1 f/stop (focal length/apeture stop) less sensitive to light than a film with a rating of 50 (although 64 is more like it, this is due to “reciprocity falure”, to be explained in another article). And a film that is ISO 100 is one f/stop slower than a film which is ISO 200. In other words, if you had 2 cameras, one with ISO 100 film and the other with ISO 200 film, you would have to give the ISO film 1 f/stop more exposure to light to create an image on that film as you would with the ISO 200 film. The difference between ISO 200 film and ISo 400 film is 1 f/stop as well. And the difference between ISO 400 and ISO 800 is also 1 f/stop in sensitivity.

The greater the sensitivity to light, the more course the grain of a film, and the less sensitive a film is to light, the tighter the grain of that film. In this way, films which are slow produce a more detailed image, and fast films produce a gainier, lesser detailed image.

For everyday photography with hand-held cameras, there are two types of film which are commonly used:

  1. negative film
  2. reversal film

Negative Film creates a negative image which when printed becomes a positive one that looks natural to the eye. Reversal film is slide film. It creates a positive image which can be viewed with the eye, an slide viewer, or projected with a slide projector.

Color Reversal Film creates a positive image as a transperency. It is the most commonly used type of film for commercial photography, such as advertisement photogaphy, fashion, etc. The reason for this is that this type of film is easier to reproduce in publication print, and because the editors of publications can view the positive image with a loupe (a small cup magnifier) on a light box for easy viewing and selection. This also eliminates the need and expense of printing all of the potential images as contact or larger prints for review. Color reversal film can also be printed like color film, but requires special photographic paper to keep the image positive, whereas with negative printing papers, the negative image is printed as a positive. The process is “reversed” for color reversal films, thus the name “reversal film”.

Every type of film has it’s particular characteristics.

Black and White Film
This type of film has very tight grain and yields an image with great detail. It is very good for making good use of texture. B&W film tends to emphasize textures and using it can result in an image which makes the texture of an object seem more dramatic. This type of film is not used much anymore, although it is typically the starting point for formal education in photography. Most photography students learn to shoot, process, and print with B&W film before moving on to color processes.

B&W negative film has the highest exposure latitude of any type of consumer film. It also has a higher contrast ratio than color film.

The exposure latitude of B&W film
Underexposure: up to 3-4 f/stops
Overexposure: up to 2-3 f/stops

Color Negative Film
Color film which produces a negative image. This type of film has an exposure latitude which is wider than reversal film but more narrow than B&W film. The contrast ratio and density are medium. Best used for everyday photography where prints are the desired end resul.

The exposure latitude of color negative film
Underexposure: up to 1 to 1 1/2 f/stops
Overexposure: up to 1 1/2 to 2 f/stops

Color Reversal Film
Reversal (slide) film creates a positive transperency. It has a more density and an exposure lattitude than negative film. It is best used when commercial publication or projection for group viewing is the desired end result.

The exposure latitude of color reversal film
Underexposure: up to 1 to 1 1/2 f/stops
Overexposure: up to 1/2 to 1 f/stop

You can see that the exposure latitude of color reversal film is much more narrow than with other common films. This means that the photographer has less leway in error for exposure, and more came must be taken to insure that the exposure is correct. This includes not only allowing the camera to automaytically select an exposure, but possible compensation by the photographer to insure that the image will retain detail in the shadows or highlights. With color reversal film, it is very easy to make a photograph in which the bright highlighs “burn out” and go completely white with no detail whatsoever. Likewise, it is also easy to make a photograph in which the shadows go so dark than no detail can be seen in them.

FILM FORMATS
The most common film format is 35mm. The measurement of 35mm film is the length of the diagonal of the film from one corner to an opposing cti-cormer, and creates a film frame that is 24 x 36 mm. 35mm cameras are considered small format cameras.

Cameras which use larger film are considered medium format cmaeras. They may be 6x4.5cm, 6x6cm, and 6x9cm. This format is typically used by professional photographers, although 35mm is also used by professionals. Large format cameras use 8x10 inch or larger sheet film, and is used typically for commercial advertising and scenic photography. However, large format has gone out of vouge because it is very expensive, and medium format offers exceptional image detail anyway.

Chosing Your Film Correctly

When selecting film, you should consider not only what your desired end result will be (prints or slides), but also the quality of the light. If you are photographing something outdoors in bright sunlight, a slow film will suffice. The dissadvantage of the slow film is that you will be required to use a slower shutter speed or larger apeture to create your exposures. If your lighting is not so bright, such as at dusk or dawn, or when using photoflash, you might prefer a faster film. The dissadvantage is that while you can use a faster shutter speed and/or a smaller apeture to create your exposures, the film is somewhat grainier than the slow film. However, it is important to know that modern fast color films have pretty impressive grain, and can yield fine results when printed to 11x14 or even 16x20 if the film speed is not too high or above, say, ISO 400.

With 35 mm films, if you are going to enlarge your prints to 16x20, 24x30, or anything larger than 11x14, it is highly recommended to use the slowest film you can under the circumstances to retain a smoother, less grainy print.

If you are shooting with a medium format camera, grain is of little concern, and you can enlarge even ISO 400 to 24x30 and still have a sharp image because there are so many more grains that make up the negative.

Here’s a basic guideline for chosing films according to lighting:

ISO 100 or lower: bright light, photoflash at distances of 20 ft. or less with a pocket camera, 30-40 ft. with a professional camera.

ISO 200-400: medium to lower light, photoflash at distances of 25-30 ft. with a pocket camera, perhaps 40 ft. or more with a professional camera.

ISO 800 or higher: very low light with photoflash or where flash is not available or allowed, such as certain indoor sporting events, photoflash at distances of 30 ft. with a pocket camera, 40-50 ft. or more with a professional camera.

Those numbers or not a formal guide, they are just from my head. They are based on 27 years of experience using differnet films and photographing a wide variety of subjects in varying lighting conditions.

Here’s a brief story that exemplifies the use of film speed. Many years ago I was a photographer for a newspaper. I was assigned to photograph a football game held at night. The only lighting was the bright stadium lights (not much light for photography). The only film the paper had was Kodak Tri-X ISO 400. To get an acceptable photograph from the sidelines I did a few things: firstly, I use two powerful flash units on my camera at the same time - one on the hotshoe and another connected to the sync socket. I set both to manual full output. I also shot them at my zoom len’s maximum apeture at 1/60th second exposure time to get as much light as I could. I made the photographs capturing peak action on the events of the game. Knowing that even with two flash units attached at full output that the film was considerably underexposed, I push processed the film in the paper’s darkroom. That means I overly processed the film in the developer solution. This was still not enough! So, I printed the images on high contrast paper and under exposed the print to increase the contrast. The results were wonderful pictures of the peak action of the game with an acceptable contrast and detail in the shadows and highlights. The editor could not believe that I got the shots that I did and asked me how I was able to do it. I responded simply, “That’s why you are the editor and I am the photographer!”

It is important to remember that photographic film has a more narrow latitude than the human eye. It is also less sensitive to light than your eye. Film can record approximately 256 shades of light and dark, while your eye can see far, far more shades than this. Film cannot record the amount of detail that your eye can see. Lighting that looks acceptable to your eye may be far too dim for photography without compensating with a very long exposure or by using artificial light, such as a photoflash. Also, film cannot retain detail in the bright highlits of objects as your eye can see. When you photograph something, you will loose detail somewhere, even if the print looks like it has all of the detail of the original image. This is why slecting your film properly can make a big difference, and why photogrphic technique can also make a difference. Automatic cameras do a great job, but the light measuring “brain” of any camera is basically a “dummy”, and cannot interpret scenes like your mind, even if the camera has multi-spot metering.

Film Processing
If you are interested in learning to process and print your own films, be prepared to spend a lot of money and purchase a good, expensive book on the subject. Processing your own films is something which very few photographers do for themselves anymore because it has become prohibitively expensive. The materials are costly, as is the equipment. You will need chemicals, photo printing paper, chemical containers, trays, filters, an enlarger, a place to create a totally dark room, etc. Although there is an art to printing photographs, even to making adjustments to them as you print them, this art is dissapearing completely.

You should never touch the emulsion surface of photographic film with your fingers. The acid in skin oils will over time damage the image therein. It is recomended that you hold film by it’s edges. If you are handling a large quantity of film you should wear silk photographic technician gloves. The same is true for photgraphic prints. Never touch the surface of a photographic print (or likewise a computer print) on it’s image surface. If you handle photographic materials with caution and they will last for many, many years.

Always store unused photographic film in the refrigerator. However, when doing so, realize that you cannot then take that film, cold as it may be, out of doors into a hot environment. If you do, droplets of moisture will condense on it’s surface and that can damage the film and possible distribute moisture into your camera. If your film has been stored in a refrigerator, allow it to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before taking it out of doors.

The reason for storing film in the refrigerator is that the low temperature reduces the amount of activity in the molecules of silver salts in the film. Film expires after about 1 year or less at room temperature, and if used after that will likely produce photographs which have less than accurate color. For the most accurate skin tones in your photos, don’t use film that is one year old, or which has not been stored in a refrigerator for that length of time.

Special professional films designed for portraiture, such as the famous Kodak Vericolor, or the ultra low-grain Kodak Kodachrome 25 or 64 are especially sensitive to temperature and age.

I hope that you have enjoyed this article about photographic films, and that you may have learned something in the process.