AEG serachlight specs req

Hello there!

A friend of mine gave me this AEG BSW301 (square based infrared/white searchlight? with motor controlled barndoors).
While looking for info on the web i found anything but that it could be the searchlight mounted on the Egyptian version of the T-55 tank.
(I’m new here, so i cannot post images nor links yet!!)

The searchlight I was given has been modified, I’ve been asked to replace the original operativity of the light for a theatrical representation, so i need to know what kind of lamp was installed (discharge lamp? halogen?), readable sign says only 150W 8,8A
There’s a 12 pin connector on the back, what about it? Do I need a Ballast, or a power supply/transformer of what kind?!
What about the barndoors control (open/close button?! was it remote?)

Everything will be useful, thanx!

the little sign on the back says:

AEG gerat nr.- 0549 BJ 71 (partially unreadable)
Bandscherinwerfer BSW 301/150W
???V 8,8A 0,21kW
Vers. Nr. ??? 5855-12-15?-9015

??berholt durch
??Inst Werk 850
??? Erh Stufe [x]
Datum
[5/86]

Hello J.C.

I’m of the opinion that you have in your possession an infra-red/white searchlight from an early Leopard 1 A3 (or similar series) tank.
Possibly, the lamp is from an Italian C1 Ariette tank, basically the Italian version of the above.
How such a device may have come to be on an Egyptian T55 tank is, to my thinking, problematical at best.

At a rating of 150W, 8.8 Amps, I’d think it to be an combined infra-red/white bulb, with the gas filling in either the xenon or halogen range, though my thoughts lean to xenon, in this instance. This, in turn, suggests a 24/28 volt electrical system.
I’m uncertain that a genuine replacement bulb would be available on the civilian military surplus market, as there would seem to be little to no civilian application which would be suitable for a bulb of this nature.

I’d suggest obtaining duplicate fittings for the bulb, but replacing it with a unit in the 50 watt range, and running the bulb itself through a step-down regulator. Granted, this may be slightly more complex than what you wish for, in setting up, but would be less complex to operate, and safer for those near the unit when it is running. It would also, for theatrical purposes, provide an effect close-enough to the original that the viewing audience would (in essence) be unaware of the difference.

Some of the ex Armoured Unit forum members here may be better placed in advising you, J.C. as I’m no expert in this topic.

Kind Regards, Uyraell.

thanx alot, Uyraell!

they told me it was a WW2 searchlight from a Phanter tank ('40s), but i had never find anything about it… (?)
so, do you think it’s a '70s?

i’ve just have a look at the bulb, i dunno if it’s the original one, it’s a 15V 150W Osram Bellaphot GY 6,35 (cannot date it, it seems brand new!)
It looks weird to me to be a 15V…

I’m thinking to replace it with a 12V 100W GY 6,35 (cannot find a 15W transformer!), it’s the easiest way for me, do you think it will fit and will be safe?

thanx again!

Wow, Uyraell, you’re right! It’s from a Leopard, they confused “Leopard” with “Panther”!!!
Congratulations!!
Tomorrow i’ll replace the lamp (i found a 12V 90W for now) and try to turn it on!

thanx again!

Leopard 2 or Marder:
http://www.hosin.de/Licht/Scheinwerfer/Zielscheinwerfer_BSW/zielscheinwerfer_bsw.html

You’re most welcome, J.C. :slight_smile: I’m glad I was able to help.

I don’t see any real problems in using a 12 V 90/100W 6.35 A. lamp, so long as the power supply is compatible with the bulb you use.
Where it comes to the opening-door mechanism that uncovers the lamp face, you may wish to look at a separate power supply for that function, and modify the wiring circuit accordingly.

PLEASE NOTE: KEEP an ACCURATE RECORD of the changes you make to the wiring circuits.
In Years to come, when some vehicle enthusiast wishes to refurbish the lamp to original specifications, the record of wiring circuit changes will be CRUCIAL to success in the restoration of the lamp.

I’ve been through somewhat similar wiring circuit horror stories with vintage cars, so am familiar with unrecorded alterations to circuits.

Kind and Respectful Regards J.C., Uyraell.

Great! That’s it!!!
Thanx alot flamethrowerguy!!
I just need a German->Italian or German->English translator for the docs!!! :smiley:

: Uyraell:

I’m sure it has already been hacked, there is a (handmade?) hole in the opening door for passing a 220v (!) cable, directly connected to the bulb cables (?!) i dunno what they needed to do…
Anyway i won’t modify circuitry, simply i won’t use it.
I’m gonna use that hole for a 12v cable, but now i have a new doubt… is there a fan?! do i need to dissipate heat!? (here comes a new power supply matter…)

Thanx again, you are great!!

BTW, this is a “recent” military object, how could it be on the civilian market?!

Hello J.C.
You’re more than welcome to any advice I’m able to help with: one day I may need someone’s knowledge to aid me in something, so I’m always glad to help. :slight_smile:

I’d think it may be wise to consider either a heat-sink, or a stepdown transformer, or Voltage regulator.
A small fan as used for a PC might be wise, but should not be necessary if you are only operating the lamp for short periods, i.e. not exceeding about 20 mins per session of use.
Power supply shouldn’t really be an issue if you’re only using the lamp for a theatrical (brief) scene: any suitable 12 to 15 V source, running at the correct amperage will suffice, provided you’re (again) not using the device in operating mode for uninterrupted hours.

From your description of the alterations, someone intended to use the lamp to either blind security cameras, or to provide “heat” for “indoor herbal gardens”. Neither suggests legitimate usage for the lamp in your possession.

I’m no expert in the topic of Electrical equipment, but I’d think it safe to use so long as reasonable precautions are taken.
In line with which thought, you might also wish to consider fitting a “cut-out” in the form of either a suitable fuse, or circuit-breaker for safety’s sake, to prevent the unit over-running and causing overheating issues.

As to how the unit came to be in civilian hands, I’d think an Engineering Quartermaster somewhere wrote the unit off as scrap, and it was thus sold-off. That’s the usual way such gear enters the civil market.

Kind and Respectful Regards J.C., Uyraell.